Setting the A/V Receiver Impedance Selector Switch
Originally published: Aug 2, 2010
What if you
went to your favorite local restaurant, ordered a meal and the waiter served you 1/2 the portion but charged you
full price? Would you feel cheated? Believe it or not,a good deal of home theater
enthusiasts are spending good money on the latest and greatest A/V receiver
from their favorite manufacturer and serving the same half-portion to their
speakers. I can't tell you how many
times I've run into threads on our forums or on AVS Forum where users either
were utterly confused about how to set the impedance selector switch on their
new A/V receiver or they decided to set it to the low setting because their
speakers were rated below 8-ohms and the user manual said
to do this, or Joe the Plumber set his this way and we all want to be like
Joe. Some even set the switch to the low
setting while still running 8-ohm speakers, thinking it will
be better.
This article explores why the impedance switch exists and its intended
purpose. Because of liability and the
litigious society we live in, I can't tell you to ALWAYS set the impedance
switch to the high setting for 4 ohm loads, but I can show you the facts on
what this switch does along with supportive data for you to make your own
educated decision.
If you call the manufacturer, they will tell you to ALWAYS set the switch to the low setting when using 4-ohm rated speakers mostly due to liability. UL/CSA labs may instruct you similarly. It’s a damned conspiracy! Well, not really. I know it sounds crazy to go against the manufacturer's recommendation, but hear me out before you shoot the messenger.
How Should You Set the Impedance Selector Switch on Your AV Receiver? MUST WATCH!
The Basics
Let's back up a bit and define a few basic terms to gain a better understanding of the topic at hand.
- Voltage – Is electromotive force. This is defined as a potential electrical pressure difference between two points in a circuit measured in volts (V).
- Current - flow of electrons in a circuit measured in amperes
(A).
- AC (Alternating Current) – The electrons move to and fro in the circuit in alternating direction.
- DC (Direct current) – The electrons move in a single direction in the circuit.
- Resistance – The measure which is the inverse of electrical conductance to direct current. This also can be considered as the ratio of electromotive force (Volts) divided by the flow of current (Amperes).
- Impedance – is a complex measurement of opposition to current flow in an (AC) circuit. With AC, or alternating current (alternating at any frequency higher than Zero Hertz, which is Direct Current) impedance can be represented as the complex combination of Resistance (DCR) and Reactance (“Resistance” to AC current flow). AC ”Resistance”, technically called Impedance is a frequency dependent, complex measurement including both a magnitude and phase component. This complex quantity is often represented as the letter “Z”.
- Power - is equal to the product of Current and Voltage times a power factor, resulting from the phase difference (if any) between the flow of the current, and the presence of electromotive force (Volts). This product is measured in watts (W). (In DC circuits, or even AC circuits where the load is purely resistive, the phase is zero, and the power factor is one, so the equation is simple Watts = Volts * Amperes)
What About Loudspeaker Impedance?
Loudspeaker Impedance is often stated as a single rating in ohms. This is done for the sake of simplicity, as few ,if any, real loudspeakers present a constant load to their amplifiers. Typically, the magnitude of the loudspeaker impedance can range from a few ohms to many hundreds of ohms. Loudspeakers are electro-mechanical transducers that operate with AC signal input. They will also operate at DC, but only long enough for the VC to go one direction and jump out of the magnetic gap. As a result, specifying a loudspeaker by its DC impedance or voice coil resistance is a little bit like trying to guess how much horsepower the engine produces based on the number of doors on a car. At and near the resonant frequency of the loudspeaker, its impedance often rises to more than 100 ohms. The nominal impedance is basically a conservative notion of how low the speakers impedance will go over the range of frequencies it is operating over, so that musical spectrum in that range will not cause the amplifier to be overloaded if the amount of current drawn by the loudspeaker is too high. As we can see from the impedance magnitude curves (bold blue) and phase (light blue) for the measurements below, the absolute value of the speaker's Impedance varies enormously, and it is the area on the curve where the magnitude is lowest that poses the greatest current demands on the amplifier. This is especially true when this low flat region corresponds to that range of frequencies where much musical information lies. It is the impedance in this low region that was typically used to define the loudspeakers “nominal” impedance. Based on our definitions above, and measurements below, it's easy to see that a loudspeakers impedance is NOT constant but instead a function of frequency which can also vary drastically from the minimum or “nominal” impedance of the loudspeaker.
Impedance/Phase of two competing speakers (Left Pic: SPK A; Right Pic: SPK B)
Both of these speakers are rated at 8-ohms by their respective manufacturers. Yet when you look more closely at the curves, they look drastically different not only from each other, but from the straight horizontal line that would represent a purely resistive impedance. You can see Speaker A (left pic) never dips below 8-ohms at any frequency. In this case the manufacturer rated the speaker very conservatively. Speaker B exhibits several dips into the 6-ohm region measuring lower than 5-ohms below 20Hz. This particular loudspeaker lacks a high-pass section for its midrange speaker, so at low frequencies those midrange speakers are in parallel with the woofer, creating a high current demand on the amplifier, which can cause it to shut down. This happened to me personally when this speaker was driven with extremely low frequency content at high output levels using a very beefy Marantz Integrated amplifier rated at 200wpc. Despite the fact that there is little musical content near or below 20Hz, the amplifier still sees that speaker as a dangerous load when driving it. If this system is using a turntable, and if there is a slight warp to the record, the combination of phono cartridge and RIAA equalization curve may be producing a demand for output at 15Hz from the amplifier/loudspeaker combination that could be larger in magnitude than the entire audible musical spectrum! The RIAA curve made for LP's and phono cartridges uses far higher gain at the lowest frequencies than the highest. Those of us not old enough to remember when our music was sold on LP records may have never witnessed this. Suffice it to say, those who favor LP's over digital media must be proud owners of high order subsonic filters as part of their electronic arsenal. The effect of even a modest amount of low frequency energy in the subsonic range can cause the loudspeaker, especially vented designs, to move wildly causing gross distortions under extremely high excursions they were never designed for.
There is no universally adhered-to standard for how consumer loudspeaker manufacturers rate loudspeaker impedance! The EIA published a standard which has for many years been the defacto standard for determining nominal loudspeaker driver impedance. That standard stated the impedance would be measured at 400Hz, and the voice coil resistance should not be below 6.4-ohms for an 8-ohms speaker, or twice that for a 16-ohm speaker. That standard has become less and less common in the business as the race for sales created a pressure for manufacturers to use ever lower DC Resistance's (DCR's) on their voice coils to increase the apparent efficiency by drawing more power (lower impedance loads draw more power than higher impedance ones when attached to amplifiers) than the competition. For equally efficient systems, the 4 ohm speaker should be 3db higher than the 8 ohm speaker having identical efficiency!
Realizing the fact that impedance is a complex and greatly variable quantity, don't get hung up on an absolute number for impedance. It's important to look at the loudspeaker's impedance curve and efficiency to understand how it will play with the amplifier it is coupled with. Impedance dips at low to middle frequencies where much of the power is present in music can be far more stressful on linear class A/B amplifiers than dips in impedance magnitude at high frequencies, where demands for power are relatively small. The opposite is true for Class D amplifiers, some of which choke when presented with low impedance dips at high frequencies because of potential interactions with their output filter.
See also:
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Recent Forum Posts:
dlaloum, post: 1535416, member: 97313The switch isn't about performance, it's about regulatory compliance….
Both my Onkyo TX-SR876 and Integra DTR 70.4 had the “6ohm+ / 4ohm” switch.
My speakers drop down below 2 ohm at both the high end and at the woofer/midrange crossover.
Under all circumstances, the amps sounded best on the 6ohm+ setting - it may have run a bit warmer - but the sound was definitely better/cleaner, and it never seemed to drive the amps into their nanny mode (if pushed too hard they self protect by automatically placing themselves in the 4 ohm mode).
Given my experience with speakers providing a difficult load to the amp, I cannot fathom why they bother with that switch - all it ever does, is degrade the sound… with the sort of low impedance speakers that match the 4 ohm tag, it neither protects the receiver, nor improves the sound.
P.S. I even ran the Receivers in bridged mode for front L/R, which effectively meant the amps were seeing loads below 1 ohm (it halves the effective impedance!) - and still the amps ran fine. (but they sounded better in standard mode, rather than in bridged mode - no surprises… the sub 1ohm load pushed the amps a bit too hard!)
My speakers drop down below 2 ohm at both the high end and at the woofer/midrange crossover.
Under all circumstances, the amps sounded best on the 6ohm+ setting - it may have run a bit warmer - but the sound was definitely better/cleaner, and it never seemed to drive the amps into their nanny mode (if pushed too hard they self protect by automatically placing themselves in the 4 ohm mode).
Given my experience with speakers providing a difficult load to the amp, I cannot fathom why they bother with that switch - all it ever does, is degrade the sound… with the sort of low impedance speakers that match the 4 ohm tag, it neither protects the receiver, nor improves the sound.
P.S. I even ran the Receivers in bridged mode for front L/R, which effectively meant the amps were seeing loads below 1 ohm (it halves the effective impedance!) - and still the amps ran fine. (but they sounded better in standard mode, rather than in bridged mode - no surprises… the sub 1ohm load pushed the amps a bit too hard!)
antineutrino, post: 1534842, member: 97938
Well I was talking about that…
Low Impedance (Z) Mode …. loudspeakers rated below 8-ohms. (This mode limits the output voltage, and therefore the maximum current any given speaker can demand of it).
High Impedance (Z) Mode … loudspeakers rated at 6-ohms or higher….
And I suppose that would be right…
Low Impedance (Z) Mode …. loudspeakers rated below 6-ohms. (This mode limits the output voltage, and therefore the maximum current any given speaker can demand of it).
High Impedance (Z) Mode … loudspeakers rated at 8-ohms or higher….
That's splitting hairs though.. The nominal impedance figures should be used as a general guide/approximation. For more details one would have to look at the impedance vs frequency curve. For amplifiers, owner's manual, typically simply go with 4, 6 and 8 ohms only when refer to their output ratings and/or impedance selector settings.
hotrabbitsoup, post: 1359267, member: 90421You give receiver companies too much credit as if they are trying to optimize performance for 4 ohm loads with the switch. They aren't! It's there for one purpose as I stated in the article and related Youtube videos. It steps down the rail voltage so the amp clips much sooner during UL certification testing. It boggles my mind people still question this and it showcases how realistic the Netflix movie “Don't Look Up” really is.
Sorry to bring up an old thread on my first post but the topic and related article are the reason I joined up.
Without knowing the specifics of the transformers used in our receivers and amps I am assuming that the transformer secondary that results in lower voltage in the power supply (the ‘4 ohm’ option) is made up of conductor that is actually thicker than the winding used for the ‘8 ohm’ option. The arguments in the impedence switch article make sense but another way of ensuring 4 ohm stable thermal performance is to use beefier conductor in the transformer core. If that secondary is wound with thicker wire you get less turns and hence the lower voltage output but the thicker conductor will survive for longer under high current draw as the windings heat up from I^2R losses. Anyone have any parts transformers from receivers that can check or know of off the shelf transformer part numbers used in AVRs that I can check ? It would really be a waste of time if the 4ohm winding in the transformer had the same current rating as the 8 ohm winding which seems to be what Gene's arguing in the article from 2010…. oh my, i'm late to the party….
Many many thanks. Hey, and Happy New Year.