Stewart vs. Screen Innovations

[Bones81]

Hi All,

I'm nearing the point where I need to decide on a screen for my home theater and wanted to get people's thoughts on two particular models. My theater will be in my basement and I can control the lighting to a point where it's almost pitch black in the room. I'm aiming for a 158" acoustically transparent screen and will be using an Epson LS12000 for the projector.

Audio Advice recommended the Stewart Filmscreen WallScreen Deluxe Projector Screen - 158" - 2.40:1 - StudioTek 130 G4 MicroPerf which was quoted at $6,076.47.

Looking at Screen Innovations, their 5 Fixed 158" - 2.40:1 Pure White AT 1.3 is quoted at $5,788.16. I have an installer friend who claims he can get SI screens at a discount, but I haven't reached out to him for a quote yet.

I've heard great reviews about both companies and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with these particular models. Is it worth the reach to go for the Stewart, or is the SI model a good value (especially if I'm able to get it below list price)?

Thanks

 

[DigitalDawn]

Both companies have great products and I can save you money on either. Typically, Stewart produces a better screen than Si.

Contact me at the email below for our pricing.

 

[BMXTRIX]

If given the choice between Stewart and about anyone else, I would choose Stewart almost every day of the week. They are a top tier manufacturer.

You did your homework and really want a scope screen? That's a VERY large 16:9 image that you are dealing with.

Also... I expect this is a motorized retractable setup. Is that a requirement in your room? Those screens are so-so at best.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Personally, the LS12000 is an excellent PJ, and I would spend a lot less than $5-6K on the screen, like maybe $1-2K.

 

[Bones81]

If given the choice between Stewart and about anyone else, I would choose Stewart almost every day of the week. They are a top tier manufacturer.

You did your homework and really want a scope screen? That's a VERY large 16:9 image that you are dealing with.

Also... I expect this is a motorized retractable setup. Is that a requirement in your room? Those screens are so-so at best.

It will be a fixed screen.

Personally, the LS12000 is an excellent PJ, and I would spend a lot less than $5-6K on the screen, like maybe $1-2K.

I'm all ears for suggestions. A local home theater company suggested a Severston Legacy Series screen.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

It will be a fixed screen.
I'm all ears for suggestions. A local home theater company suggested a Severston Legacy Series screen.

So a fixed acoustic-transparent 2.4:1 screen? I guess you’re using Panamorph lens for 2.40:1?

I think if your installer or dealer can get you a much better price like $4K for screen, I would go with that.

The 2.40, 158”, AT definitely makes the screen more expensive than a standard 16:9 AT.

 

[Movie2099]

Hi All,

I'm nearing the point where I need to decide on a screen for my home theater and wanted to get people's thoughts on two particular models. My theater will be in my basement and I can control the lighting to a point where it's almost pitch black in the room. I'm aiming for a 158" acoustically transparent screen and will be using an Epson LS12000 for the projector.

Audio Advice recommended the Stewart Filmscreen WallScreen Deluxe Projector Screen - 158" - 2.40:1 - StudioTek 130 G4 MicroPerf which was quoted at $6,076.47.

Looking at Screen Innovations, their 5 Fixed 158" - 2.40:1 Pure White AT 1.3 is quoted at $5,788.16. I have an installer friend who claims he can get SI screens at a discount, but I haven't reached out to him for a quote yet.

I've heard great reviews about both companies and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with these particular models. Is it worth the reach to go for the Stewart, or is the SI model a good value (especially if I'm able to get it below list price)?

Thanks

Go with the Stewart screen. Talk to AcuDef. He's a Stewart screen dealer. Then go on AVS forums and purchase a used MadVR Mk1. BAM! you'll have a pretty kick ass setup! Once the MadVR is setup, you won't have to worry about messing with screen shifts from movies or TV shows. MadVR will take care of all that for you automatically.

 

[BMXTRIX]

It will be a fixed screen.

How good is the room it is going into? I am a big fan of Stewart, and they really do a great job, but both Seymour and Silver Ticket actually do a great job with their screens and XY is also a top option. All of which cost a fraction of what Stewart costs. Keep in mind that retailers make a small fortune on screens, so they aren't necessarily going with YOUR best interests. Though, Stewart is always a good option. This thread is totally worth a read...

[Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...

www.avsforum.com

ONCE AGAIN: You've done your homework on using a 2.40 screen instead of a 16:9 screen right? This is not a typical way to do things, and not the way I would generally recommend people go. Especially if you're just using lens presets to recall the 2.40 and switch back to 1.78 ratios. You just are blowing up a 16:9 image to fill the width, while never getting the height that's available. This is not always explained properly to people doing things. You will OWN a 1.78:1 (16:9) projector. Unless you get a anamorphic lens, or have a very wide wall which really begs for a widescreen setup, tread carefully when considering a Scope screen.

 

[Bones81]

How good is the room it is going into? I am a big fan of Stewart, and they really do a great job, but both Seymour and Silver Ticket actually do a great job with their screens and XY is also a top option. All of which cost a fraction of what Stewart costs. Keep in mind that retailers make a small fortune on screens, so they aren't necessarily going with YOUR best interests. Though, Stewart is always a good option. This thread is totally worth a read...

[Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...

www.avsforum.com

ONCE AGAIN: You've done your homework on using a 2.40 screen instead of a 16:9 screen right? This is not a typical way to do things, and not the way I would generally recommend people go. Especially if you're just using lens presets to recall the 2.40 and switch back to 1.78 ratios. You just are blowing up a 16:9 image to fill the width, while never getting the height that's available. This is not always explained properly to people doing things. You will OWN a 1.78:1 (16:9) projector. Unless you get a anamorphic lens, or have a very wide wall which really begs for a widescreen setup, tread carefully when considering a Scope screen.

No plans for an anamorphic lens at this time, will just be using the projector zoom to switch between formats. The screen wall is 19'9" wide and 8'5" tall. I've attached the screenshots using Audio Advice's design tool showing the 158" 2.40 and a 135" 1.78 (which is the largest size that will fit that wall). I was leaning towards the 2.40 for movies but I do watch quite a bit of sports in the fall. Most of the recommendations I received was for a 2.4 / 2.35 screen but I'm not married to it.

 

[BMXTRIX]

No plans for an anamorphic lens at this time, will just be using the projector zoom to switch between formats. The screen wall is 19'9" wide and 8'5" tall.
...(which is the largest size that will fit that wall)....

Just give it some though. I'm not sure if you're height limited or something else with what is on that wall other than the screen. I have 8' ceilings and a 161" diagonal 16:9 screen. With 1 row of seating I have no issues with viewing it at 16' eyes to screen.

With about a 168" diagonal size when using a scope screen that's as wide as you're looking at, it will work just fine, but you really are projecting a 168" diagonal 16:9 image, then only using that center part for the 158" scope section. So, 20" of image gets thrown away.

The wall is wide though, and this type of setup doesn't make me crazy when people do a scope setup in such a wide room. I just like sticking the bug into people's heads that maybe they really need to give a lot more thought to sticking with 16:9 since that's really all you are doing when you zoom the lens out to fill that 146" width.

It will be a solid setup no matter which way you go. If you really can't go taller than that 138" screen allows for, then I would definitely go with a Scope screen in this room and grab that extra width. You will want a very dark/black back wall to soak up the overspray of light from the projector when in Scope mode.

 

[Bones81]

Just give it some though. I'm not sure if you're height limited or something else with what is on that wall other than the screen. I have 8' ceilings and a 161" diagonal 16:9 screen. With 1 row of seating I have no issues with viewing it at 16' eyes to screen.

With about a 168" diagonal size when using a scope screen that's as wide as you're looking at, it will work just fine, but you really are projecting a 168" diagonal 16:9 image, then only using that center part for the 158" scope section. So, 20" of image gets thrown away.

The wall is wide though, and this type of setup doesn't make me crazy when people do a scope setup in such a wide room. I just like sticking the bug into people's heads that maybe they really need to give a lot more thought to sticking with 16:9 since that's really all you are doing when you zoom the lens out to fill that 146" width.

It will be a solid setup no matter which way you go. If you really can't go taller than that 138" screen allows for, then I would definitely go with a Scope screen in this room and grab that extra width. You will want a very dark/black back wall to soak up the overspray of light from the projector when in Scope mode.

Appreciate all the feedback. I've painted the walls and ceilings a pretty dark color and will put up blackout curtains on the 2 windows soon. I'm looking forward to seeing it all come together.

 

[panteragstk]

How good is the room it is going into? I am a big fan of Stewart, and they really do a great job, but both Seymour and Silver Ticket actually do a great job with their screens and XY is also a top option. All of which cost a fraction of what Stewart costs. Keep in mind that retailers make a small fortune on screens, so they aren't necessarily going with YOUR best interests. Though, Stewart is always a good option. This thread is totally worth a read...

[Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...

www.avsforum.com

ONCE AGAIN: You've done your homework on using a 2.40 screen instead of a 16:9 screen right? This is not a typical way to do things, and not the way I would generally recommend people go. Especially if you're just using lens presets to recall the 2.40 and switch back to 1.78 ratios. You just are blowing up a 16:9 image to fill the width, while never getting the height that's available. This is not always explained properly to people doing things. You will OWN a 1.78:1 (16:9) projector. Unless you get a anamorphic lens, or have a very wide wall which really begs for a widescreen setup, tread carefully when considering a Scope screen.

Very interesting link on the screen materials tested.

I've got one of the DIY special spandex screens I built years ago for my HC4000. I've got a new PJ on order, so I'm in the same boat as OP with the exception of not needing a 2.4:1 screen. I've been 16:9 for the entire time I've owned a PJ and plan to stay that way.

According to the site link, my setup is very transparent, but the gain is only .43 on mine.

Should 1.0 gain be the goal?

 

[BMXTRIX]

Should 1.0 gain be the goal?

I don't think it really works like that. I think that you recognize that you may be able to get a fair bit of a brighter image using a different material in your setup, but it doesn't mean that you must change things out to get there.

The more light that bounces off your screen, the brighter the image will be, but it also lowers contrast unless you've got a dead black (adamantium black) room. So, light bouncing, hits walls, falls back on the screen, lowers contrast. So, with a negative gain screen you potentially have greater contrast.

Speaking to DaLite, the person I spoke with said that their .9 gain progressive HD material was the absolute best material he has ever seen when put into a good room. No positive gain, just a 10% negative gain screen. I would take that type of statement as being pretty darn honest.

I'm more a fan for a larger, brighter image, and I need it with a 161" diagonal, so I opted for a 1.3 gain screen. But, it is a quality material from Draper. Maybe not as good as Stewart, and perhaps not as honest, but I'll take it.

I think with AT screens a big of negative gain would be at least expected. You're allowing some light through the material, and that's just how the physics of it works. But, as long as you have enough brightness to make yourself happy with the onscreen image, then that's really all that matters.

 

[panteragstk]

I don't think it really works like that. I think that you recognize that you may be able to get a fair bit of a brighter image using a different material in your setup, but it doesn't mean that you must change things out to get there.

The more light that bounces off your screen, the brighter the image will be, but it also lowers contrast unless you've got a dead black (adamantium black) room. So, light bouncing, hits walls, falls back on the screen, lowers contrast. So, with a negative gain screen you potentially have greater contrast.

Speaking to DaLite, the person I spoke with said that their .9 gain progressive HD material was the absolute best material he has ever seen when put into a good room. No positive gain, just a 10% negative gain screen. I would take that type of statement as being pretty darn honest.

I'm more a fan for a larger, brighter image, and I need it with a 161" diagonal, so I opted for a 1.3 gain screen. But, it is a quality material from Draper. Maybe not as good as Stewart, and perhaps not as honest, but I'll take it.

I think with AT screens a big of negative gain would be at least expected. You're allowing some light through the material, and that's just how the physics of it works. But, as long as you have enough brightness to make yourself happy with the onscreen image, then that's really all that matters.

So more than anything, I need to get the new PJ in place and decide if my gray screen will work or not.

Bright scenes on my HC4000 look great with it, and the PJ I'm getting is significantly brighter, so I should be good.

If not, new material.

 

[Danzilla31]

So more than anything, I need to get the new PJ in place and decide if my gray screen will work or not.

Bright scenes on my HC4000 look great with it, and the PJ I'm getting is significantly brighter, so I should be good.

If not, new material.

I remember you thinking over your pj options in some earlier thread a few months back which projector did you decide to go with @panteragstk?

 

[panteragstk]

I remember you thinking over your pj options in some earlier thread a few months back which projector did you decide to go with @panteragstk?

I was lucky enough to snag an DLA-NP5 for a heck of a deal. I should get it next month.

DLA-NP5

　

www.jvc.com

 

[BMXTRIX]

I was lucky enough to snag an DLA-NP5 for a heck of a deal. I should get it next month.

DLA-NP5

　

www.jvc.com

Gotta post some photos and give some impressions when you have it up and running. I don't expect to swap my 590/RS440 anytime soon. But, I'm okay with that.

 

[panteragstk]

Gotta post some photos and give some impressions when you have it up and running. I don't expect to swap my 590/RS440 anytime soon. But, I'm okay with that.

I will once everything gets installed.

I need a new mount because I'm going from an 8lb pj to a 40lb pj.

Any recommendations?

 

[DigitalDawn]

This: https://www.legrandav.com/products/mounts/projector-mounts/rpa-elite-universal-amp-custom-ceiling-projector-mounts-with-keyed-locking-rpma302/rpma302

 

[BMXTRIX]

I need a new mount because I'm going from an 8lb pj to a 40lb pj.

The Chief RPMAU is the way to go. They often pop up on eBay as new or complete units for not a lot of cash.
Unlike cheap mounts, Chief sells their stuff as separate parts. Typically, the mount, plus a universal projector interface bracket are sold together. So, the RPMAU includes the RPA Elite mount, plus the SLBU universal projector interface bracket.
The mount itself can be bolted directly into a ceiling, but it is designed to have a ceiling interface bracket (sold separately) and a extension column (sold separately) used with it as an option. The ceiling interface, most residential clients just think of a standard plate that attaches to your ceiling, but what if you have a drop ceiling? What if you have a cathedral ceiling? What about all the commercial ceilings that don't have any ceiling, or have concrete, or have an I-beam? They make custom ceiling interface brackets to suit almost any need. So, it's sold separately.
Likewise with the extension column. If you need a 2" extension, then that's what you get. If you need a 10' extension, then that's what you get. Completely up to you what is purchased.

This is the mount itself, without the SLBU universal bracket, you can see it includes about a 10" extension column, but not ceiling plate.

Ceiling Projector Mounting Bracket RPMA000 Chief | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ceiling Projector Mounting Bracket RPMA000 Chief at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

This one includes the plate, but it only has 3 legs on the plate instead of four. You would need to pick up a extra leg (they can be bought individually online typically)...

Chief RPMA000 RPA Projector Ceiling Mount Assembly for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Chief RPMA000 RPA Projector Ceiling Mount Assembly at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Extra leg...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/276008863069

That's the deal I'd probably go for since it gets you everything for under $100.

For the ceiling plate, I use 1.5" plumbing flanges from Home Depot. They work great. I spray paint them flat black.
For the extension column, I grab 1.5" plumbing pipe from Home Depot as well. Once again, I spray paint it flat black.

It saves you $50+ if you care to do it this way.