Projector Specs and Choosing a 1080 pj

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PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
I hope to set up ~100" screen and watch movies at night in the family room. The room ceiling and walls are white but there's not much reflection from them (stuff on the walls) etc.) I see several many new and used pjs in my price range of <$500. Yeah - sorry but that's my situation.
There are many older "business class" ones used in class rooms and board rooms that list 5500 lumens, 3000:1 contrast and 0.76" 3LCD Chip technology with ~1,000 hrs on the bulb that cost $5,500 back in the day e.g. Christie. How am I to tell if these older projectors have reasonable color accuracy. They are physically big and that's fine with me. Is there another spec to look at? I don't see any other specs. Maybe 8, 10 bit color? I only watch one or at most two movies a month so that's maybe 4 hrs a month, 48 hrs a year....so even 500 hrs on a bulb is way more than I need. 10 years!
Bottom line what used 1080p PJs are recommended? What specs to consider? Thanks
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
The black levels on almost all business class projectors are terrible, and the DLP models almost all exclusively use 2x color wheels which are super prone to rainbow effect issues (RBE). This is why super casual movie night outside can get by with a cheap $100 Panasonic LCD projector, but in your home, you absolutely want a proper home theater model if budget allows.

It is worth keeping in mind that as projectors age, and get use, they have a ton of other moving parts like fans that degrade, DLP chips that suffer from stuck pixels, power supplies that just age out and fail, or LCD polarizers which start to discolor and fail. This means that ANYTHING used, without a warranty, is a gamble. So while something like this would absolutely blow away almost anything else out there for the money...
You aren't under any promise that it will work more than a month, and if even the lamp fails, you are out a fair bit to replace that lamp with a high quality replacement.

That said, the Epson 5020UB is a beast and quite a good projector. It will look better than a brand new BenQ TH575 ($500) for sure.
There are other models out there as well which fall into this category and perhaps budget. But, it is not exactly new having been released over 10 years ago. Still, it holds the similar form factor to the current 5050UB, so it's not that crazy of an idea. Just make sure if you pick anything up, that you test it thoroughly prior to taking ownership or getting stuck with it.

I would say a model like the Epson 3800 for about $1,300 refurb probably wouldn't look one bit better than the 5020UB, it just offers a warranty and cheap replacement lamps.

You can throw out models for us to consider, but if there are reviews at Projector Central, than read them first and look for other 'quality' reviews that actually take some measurements and has someone who knows their stuff looking at it.

Don't get silly and just buy something without doing homework.

Be aware of throw distance, and that these projectors NEED a surround system of some sort to work properly. That can be part of the discussion.

As should screen size as 100" is relatively small by front projection standards. I'm not sure I've ever installed anything smaller than 120" diagonal. Plan on at least 10" of screen diagonal for each foot of viewing distance. So, yes, if you're 10' eyes to screen, then a 100" diagonal makes sense. But, if you picked that size because it sounded good, you will want to do some measuring instead. Oh, and IF YOU CAN - buy the projector, and try out some different sizes and see how comfy it is at various sizes. You may find you like a 135" screen unexpectedly.

Lastly, make sure you know throw distance, lens shift, and lens offset for anything you buy. Projector Central does a great job with their Throw Calculator...
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
Thanks for the well thought out reply.
As a newbie to projectors I see used "business class" projectors had the same-ish MSRP ($5k) as those billed for HT use. So i was, am, still a bit baffled by that.

What got me started on this road was I picked up a donated Christie LW551i for church and was fascinated by the huge image it can cast.

Projector central shows some pj's, like the 5020, with aspect ratio of 16:9. Does that mean it won't project 2.35:1 at all or properly?
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
Be aware of throw distance, and that these projectors NEED a surround system of some sort to work properly. That can be part of the discussion
My audio setup:
Rotel RSP-1570, RMB-1095 5 channel amp, Polk LSi15, LSiC, LSi9 for surrounds. Polk LSiW sub. Sony UBP-X800M2 player.
My room is 13x20 but open on one side to the rest of the house The LSi15s are 4ft from the front wall and the listening sofa is 5ft from the back wall making 11ft from the sofa to the speakers. The 15s are 11ft apart I toe them in slightly.

After your post and doing some reading I am thinking of getting or making a movable AT screen on a stand as wide as possible for the room. Say 9-10 ft wide making about a 130" screen I think for 2.35:1. I can place the pj about 3 ft behind the sofa on a shelf or on a table in the middle of the room but can't, or choose not to, install a ceiling mount. My intent is to bring in the screen from the garage where it would be stored covered somehow and place it in front of the LCRs. Run a 25 ft HDMI cable for video from the player to the pj or temporarily move the player next to the pj and run audio to the front on a 25ft hdmi whichever works best.
I won't paint the walls black but have no intent of watching during the day. We have a tv for that. So literally "movie night" 1-2 times a month. No street lights or otherwise
outside lights to contend with as we live "in the country."
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
But if I just put the screen in front of the LCRs that makes about a 10-11 ft viewing distance. Which is why I was think originally a 100" screen. Bigger than that seems too much. I could slide the LCRs back 1-2 ft I guess for the movie. I have the two Christie pjs at the house to learn how to use it and will try the configuration with a sheet or something this weekend. (I'm trying to figure out if I can "stack" them on top or side to side for better image quality)
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Great to know you are set for audio. I've been participating in groups where "I'll just use the projector audio!" has been a common mindset. So, glad you are set.

I think my primary concern/considerations are the following...
1. I'm concerned about any potential light bleed when using a AT screen. Just be aware that light does bleed through AT screens onto whatever is behind it. Typically people will paint the wall black behind a AT screen to prevent light bleed reflections. I've been in rooms with a AT screen and a white wall behind it and the client was super unhappy about the situation. (It was not my design) Just maybe get a sample piece of fabric, or ensure you are using a black backing on the AT screen. The Silver Ticket screens are pretty good with the WAB screens that include a black 'speaker grill cloth' backing which helps prevent bleed and light coming through pretty well.

2. 2.35 must always be very carefully considered. You will be buying a 16:9 projector, and then throwing out about 25% of the resolution/brightness which you can't get back when you use a 2.35 screen. When you watch 1.85 movies, you will be shrinking the image down. If you were to watch sports (or standard HDTV), or IMAX movies, you would need to shrink the image down. Subtitles are often outside the 2.35 frame area as well. So, I would typically recommend those that want the 2.35 experience, get a 16:9 screen and get black masks for the top/bottom of the screen that can frame it down to 2.35 if desired. Then, keep the same width, but remove the masks when you're watching 16:9 content. They can be made yourself, though I believe Seymour AV sells masks for some of their screen models. Just make sure your giving it some serious thought before going with any screen that isn't 16:9.

3. I do agree that from your seating distance, you may be completely happy with a 100" diagonal. I'd still strongly recommend you try it out first if you can to get a feel for what you like most. It may be a bit larger, but this is all very much personal preference.
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
1) Get black material behind the AT. Will do.
2) Get a 16:9 screen and mask the bars for 1.35:1. Ok I'll check out my layout this weekend with some bed sheets. When you say "I'll be getting a 16:9 projector" I'm still confused. I thought projectors could display a 1:35 or 16:9 or 4:3 without losing image.
3) Consider bigger than 100". Same as above.
Thanks.
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
Assuming that any of the Epsons from 5020ub oward would be good.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
...I'm still confused. I thought projectors could display a 1:35 or 16:9 or 4:3 without losing image.
Projectors are no different than the TVs you currently own. They have a fixed aspect ratio and a fixed resolution.

Your television is capable of showing widescreen movies, you just lose the top and bottom portion of the screen when it shows it, but the TV still physically exists. But, you have lost the resolution above and below the image. If you were to watch an old school 4:3 television show, same would be true, but this time there would be bars on the left and right of the image. TV doesn't change shape, or size for the content, it just scales the content to fit inside the screen that exists.

This is NO different with projectors. The panel that creates the image is 16:9 aspect ratio. It can show you 2.35 content with bars above and below the image, but the actual panel inside the projector isn't now a 2.35 panel, it's still a 16:9 panel. All the lenses internally are designed to use that 16:9 panel, so it doesn't have the ability to make those extra pixels disappear. It can't redirect light in some manner to give you greater light output within the 2.35 area. It can't move the pixels around to give you more resolution for 2.35 viewing. (same for 4:3 viewing) You will own a 16:9 projector, it is best paired with a 16:9 screen. You may even find that you don't mind the white space above and below the image when watching 2.35 movies if your room is dark. It actually does quite a good job of just disappearing into the room, but some people do like adding a black mask to heighten the immersive effect.
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
Thanks BMXTRIX. It's very good to have help.
I'm thinking a used Epson 5030ub or the JVC model (or similar) you gave as an example. I don't think I can swing a 5040ub right now. They seem to be going for a lot more. Do you recommend any other comparable JVC models?
Screen: I sat in front of the loaner pjs yesterday with a big bed sheet for screen. Right now I'm thinking a 130" 16x9 screen is the biggest we can fit. 140 might squeeze in but would be tight I think. Especially for my mobile screen plan. I'm thinking of building a "goal post" stand with spandex. The spandex would be on a wooden pole at the top and I would unroll it and secure it on the bottom bar and sides. (Would put multiple grommets on it). Then it could be stored in the garage when not in use and somewhat protected. Black felt behind. Manually adjustable panels to block bars and pillars for different aspect ratios.
Milliskin Matte (White)
Product ID: 795 Categories: Milliskin Matte
Or
Milliskin Matte (Light Silver)
Product ID: 5954 Categories: Milliskin Matte


But now I've morphed this thread into a best pj and screen for the money......
 
P

PWRmx24

Audioholic Intern
The black levels on almost all business class projectors are terrible, and the DLP models almost all exclusively use 2x color wheels which are super prone to rainbow effect issues (RBE). This is why super casual movie night outside can get by with a cheap $100 Panasonic LCD projector, but in your home, you absolutely want a proper home theater model if budget allows.

It is worth keeping in mind that as projectors age, and get use, they have a ton of other moving parts like fans that degrade, DLP chips that suffer from stuck pixels, power supplies that just age out and fail, or LCD polarizers which start to discolor and fail. This means that ANYTHING used, without a warranty, is a gamble. So while something like this would absolutely blow away almost anything else out there for the money...
You aren't under any promise that it will work more than a month, and if even the lamp fails, you are out a fair bit to replace that lamp with a high quality replacement.

That said, the Epson 5020UB is a beast and quite a good projector. It will look better than a brand new BenQ TH575 ($500) for sure.
There are other models out there as well which fall into this category and perhaps budget. But, it is not exactly new having been released over 10 years ago. Still, it holds the similar form factor to the current 5050UB, so it's not that crazy of an idea. Just make sure if you pick anything up, that you test it thoroughly prior to taking ownership or getting stuck with it.

I would say a model like the Epson 3800 for about $1,300 refurb probably wouldn't look one bit better than the 5020UB, it just offers a warranty and cheap replacement lamps.

You can throw out models for us to consider, but if there are reviews at Projector Central, than read them first and look for other 'quality' reviews that actually take some measurements and has someone who knows their stuff looking at it.

Don't get silly and just buy something without doing homework.

Be aware of throw distance, and that these projectors NEED a surround system of some sort to work properly. That can be part of the discussion.

As should screen size as 100" is relatively small by front projection standards. I'm not sure I've ever installed anything smaller than 120" diagonal. Plan on at least 10" of screen diagonal for each foot of viewing distance. So, yes, if you're 10' eyes to screen, then a 100" diagonal makes sense. But, if you picked that size because it sounded good, you will want to do some measuring instead. Oh, and IF YOU CAN - buy the projector, and try out some different sizes and see how comfy it is at various sizes. You may find you like a 135" screen unexpectedly.

Lastly, make sure you know throw distance, lens shift, and lens offset for anything you buy. Projector Central does a great job with their Throw Calculator...
Between the JVC and the Epson which would you recommend for a controlled light room 120" 16:9 screen with 11' viewing distance and 13.5' throw? Projector central doesnt have ANSI lumens or calculator for the JVC. Thanks.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Make sure you are aware of throw distance and how much actual room you will need for the projector. Also, any projector purchased off eBay that is 'used' will have a 30-day money back guarantee regardless of what the seller says. So, like the 4810 I linked to previously, the seller says 'No Returns'... well, that's kind of BS. They say it is used, eBay says that if a seller claims something is 'used', then it MUST be in proper operational condition. So, as a buyer, you have 30-days to ensure that's the case.

In a room with proper light control and dark paint on the walls and ceiling, the JVC is a no-brainer IMO because it really will have very good black levels and contrast. It'll look awesome.

The JVC will benefit from a better room. As will any projector. But, the JVC will look better than the Epson.

Throw distance calculator, distance is measured from LENS to screen, so make sure it fits in your room. Note that the RS440 uses the same lens as the 4810.
 
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