Step 3: Installing the Speakers
The Front LCR Speakers
OK, so you’ve
picked the speakers, marked off their locations on the walls, and cut out the
drywall using the supplied template from the manufacturer as a guideline. DON’T
follow their next step of simply connecting the speaker and popping it into the
wall. Instead consider creating a pseudo back box like I did using 2x4s and
some insulation. Since you are installing the speakers between two studs
(usually 14” on center), you can use those as the sidewalls. All you need to do
now is cut two pieces of 2x4s to wedge between the studs and serve as the top
and bottom of the back box. I went one step further and secured them with wood
screws and some clear caulking to ensure they wouldn’t rattle or come loose
over time.
Editorial Note: Make sure you pre-drill holes in the studs for the speaker wire else you won't get very far when you crank up your system to enjoy some tunes.
You now have a sealed enclosure for your in-wall speaker. If you want to get even fancier, you can tack on ¼” plywood to serve as the back of the cabinet bay but it’s not an absolute necessity. The drywall will work reasonably well, especially if you stuff the cavity with some Dacron or standard insulation.
The Surrounds
Using the
manufacturers supplied template as a guideline, cut out a circle in the proper
ceiling locations where you intended to place the surround speakers. If you are
doing 7.1, I highly recommend utilizing in-wall speakers for the side channels
and in-ceiling speakers for the back channels. I have found this to be an
incredibly good combination that provides excellent envelopment while at the
same time remaining quite musical to take advantage of Dolby Prologic IIx Music Mode.
My ceiling
spaces were heavily insulated making a back box somewhat less of a necessity,
especially since the sound doesn’t really bleed over to an adjacent room. But,
for better acoustical control and sound isolation, I strongly encourage you to
inquire about a manufacturers back box (usually in the form of an insulated
metal can). In order to eliminate any possibility of baffle to ceiling vibrations, I recommend lining the diameter of the speaker frame which connects to the ceiling with caulking prior to screwing it into the ceiling. Be especially careful to not get any caulking on the cone of the driver.
The Subwoofer(s)
I got lucky here as I had access to the Audioholics Showcase home before drywall was put up so I installed a pair of RBH Sound SI-10 enclosures between my stud bays. Using an epoxy glue, I lined the sidewalls of the RBH enclosures and the adjacent stud bays I was mounting them in. I then used wood screws on the inside walls of the RBH enclosure and drilled them into the stud bays every foot or so. Once the screws were in place and the glue dried, these cabinets became a permanent fixture to my home.
RBH Sound Signature SI-10 In-wall Subwoofer
If you are
installing a free air in-wall subwoofer, I again encourage you to find out if
the manufacturer offers a retrofit back box you can install after the drywall
is already up. Otherwise, follow the guidelines I laid out when installing the
Front LCR speakers and you should be good to go. An enclosed space (even if its not the optimal box volume) is usually a better option than operating a subwoofer driver in free space as it increasing power handling, provides better noise isolation into adjacent rooms and also provides much improved mid bass output which is critical in achieving a good subwoofer to satellite speaker blend for seamless integration.
Step 4: Calibrate and Enjoy
The first thing to do is verify all of the speakers
are working using the internal test tone generator in the receiver/processor.
It’s always a good idea to do a polarity check via an Avia test disc and/or the
auto setup feature found in most receivers these days. Next set the delays and channel
trims relative to the primary listening area using a handy SPL meter set to C-weight,
slow response. For more information on calibration and setup, check out the
Calibrate your System in the Tips and Tricks section of Audioholics.
Having done extensive listening tests of the RBH in-wall speakers I utilized in this article with and without controlled back boxes, I can tell you its literally a night and day difference. Without the back box, the sound seemed less focused and more resonant in nature. I was amazed at how much sound leaked through the next room, almost as if I was experiencing home theater meant for that adjacent room.
Once I built the back boxes and insulated them, the sound isolation in the next room became a reality. I could now partake in a full fledged home theater experience in my bedroom with minimal disturbance in the next room. Vocal intelligibility, imaging, and dynamics were greatly improved and I felt like I was finally listening to a high performance boxed system in the comforts of my bedroom. The bass from dual subs properly placed in the room was to die for and there was little need for room correction since my main listening area was well balanced by the dual subs and the added room gain below 30Hz reinforced the somewhat limited output of the in-wall subs giving them a much more authoritative presence and slam factor.
Conclusion
So there you have it, a complete home theater system
with no obtrusive boxes or floor space consumed by large subwoofers. An in-wall
system properly installed and setup should provide you with a similar
experience to its boxed counterparts but without cramping your room décor or
taking up precious floor space. Taking the extra time during the installation
process to do it right will endlessly reward you each time you turn your system
on. The goal for any good home theater system is to be so connected with the
experience that the equipment literally disappears. There is no reason why this
goal cannot be achieved with a properly executed in-wall system. This is
something I am reminded of each weekend while enjoying the latest episode of
Heroes in High Definition 5.1 surround sound with my wife in the comforts of
our bed. Now all I need to figure out how to sell my wife on hooking up the
Xbox 360 in our bedroom. I won’t be holding my breath on this, but I welcome
suggestions.
Equipment List
| Front Speakers | RBH Sound MC-6 |
| Center Speaker | RBH Sound MC-414 |
| Rear Speakers | RBH Sound MC-615 |
| Subwoofers (2) | RBH Sound Signature SI-10 |
| Receiver | Denon AVR-5805 Zone 2 |
| DVD Player | Denon DVD-5910CI |
| Display | 42” Samsung HP-S4253 Plasma |
| Speaker Cables | Bluejeans 10AWG |
| Interconnects | Impact Acoustics Sonicwave |
See also:
Recent Forum Posts:
What about building a sealed speaker box and putting it into the wall? Any difference compared to mounting it on a stand 18" in front of the wall?
I ask because my bonus room has roughly 6 feet of attic space behind the walls. I may flush mount speakers and subwoofer(s) in the future if the sound will not suffer from doing so.
I realize ported speakers in a flush mounted configuration could only work if they were front ported.





