Unfortunately since the RX-Z1 has a fixed and non defeatable 90Hz global crossover, I had to implement my subwoofer crossover to compensate. While it isn't usually a good idea to cascade two crossovers in series because of the added group delay and/or bumps and dips in the frequency band of concern, I did so with care. I configured my subwoofer crossover at 70Hz and thoroughly checked for phasing problems between my subwoofer and main channels using the infamous Avia set-up disc and excellent internal bass test tones of the RX-Z1. The internal bass test tones in screen #2 of the RX-Z1 allows the user to sweep bass frequencies from 250Hz down to 35Hz in 1/6 th octave increments for all channels, or each channel individually. This is a great feature rarely found on most costlier dedicated Processors, let alone Receivers. I managed to get satisfactory results by cascading the crossovers and found a good compromise of level setting so that the bass wasn't too overpowering in a multi channel mode while still using the "Both" setting.

One surprising feature I discovered was that the RX-Z1 did retain different channel level calibrations for its dedicated six channel analog inputs. However, for some strange reason, the levels defaulted back to my primary global settings on more than one occasion and I was unable to determine the mechanism that caused it. I recommend checking it from time to time to ensure this doesn't happen to you. For me it was obvious because when the RX-Z1 was engaged in six channel direct, I had to boost the sub level by almost 10dB to achieve nominal levels. I don't fully understand why this was so, but it was no big deal considering that the sub out level of the RX-Z1 is more than ample to easily drive my subwoofer to its limits.

I managed to get very precise level matching with my Radio Shack SPL meter thanks to the accurate internal channel trims and master volume controls 0.5dB incremental steps. Aside from the minor gripes I previously mentioned, which probably would only bother audio fanatics with elaborate speaker systems like myself, the RX-Z1 was relatively easy to set-up and was endowed with good tools to help you do so.

Yamaha RAV-2000 Universal / Learning Touch Screen Remote

The Yamaha RAV-2000 is actually a Phillips Pronto replica dressed up in Yamaha clothes. Many other electronics companies also offer Pronto clones with their own signature and custom firmware to support their products. Pronto was the first LCD touchscreen remote of its kind in a market segment it helped to create. I suppose as the old saying goes, "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em".

What can I say about this sophisticated remote that hasn't already been said by various reviews of equipment incorporating a derivative of it since its inception several years ago? The Rav-2000 is one cool cat. It is certainly the most advanced and well thought out remote I ever had the luxury of using. I really enjoyed simply typing in the name of the manufacturer of the device I wanted the RAV-2000 to operate, while it gave me a list of options to test before I accepted any of the codes. Within 10-15 minutes I had all of the devices in my home theater system categorized and operated through this remote, and with the touch of a single button, I powered on and off my entire system! Many competing devices offer the user a sheet of codes to manually enter, or force the user to download codes via RS-232 from their websites to program their remotes to operate your equipment. This is certainly more time consuming, and can be a more painful process, than the RAV-2000 integrated solution. The RAV-2000 even offers firmware upgrades and expansions of features for custom installers through Yamaha's website.

On the downside, I wish the RAV-2000 would have incorporated shortcut keys to take me to a direct device without having to scroll through a series of menus. I can't tell you how many times I set the RX-Z1's DSP mode and then had to click through a few menus in agony to get my DVD configured before viewing. Also, I must warn to be careful when changing a code for a particular device. I accidentally selected the wrong code for a specific device and deleted the actual graphic instead of just the specific code forcing me to purge the entire memory and start all over again. I also recommend buying a spare set of batteries, as programming the remote significantly uses up battery power and you may find yourself replacing the batteries, as I did, with in a month of doing the initial programming.