EP1690 Connections, Remote Control and Menu System

The EP1690 has the right connections for hybrid use, but was missing dedicated component video inputs which will turn off many users from this model. The VGA inputs will do well with even legacy PC systems or laptops and composite and s-video are provided if a DVD needs to be connected in a casual setting. As we mentioned, the conspicuously absent component video connection had us perplexed. The VGA1 input is component video-capable, but I believe a breakout connector or cable should have been provided with the unit (they can be found for ~$25-$60+ retail online).

The majority of tests were done using the DVI-D input. We also sent interlaced signal from the Denon DVD-3930CI to the Optoma projector and allowed the onboard deinterlacer to convert the video to progressive scan and provide 2:3 pulldown. It was easy to get at the connections and the DVI-D connector, though usually something we prefer to be replaced by HDMI, made a lot of sense given the hybrid nature of this model.

Remote Control

Optoma has more remote controls than projectors. I think they must have an overzealous remote control buyer that spends tons of time overseas trying out newfangled devices for controlling their projectors. Of the remotes Optoma has supplied to date, this is certainly one of them. Yes, it's about average, except that it loses major points by not being backlit (must we go over this again?) At this point any company who makes a projector without a backlit remote should immediately be subjugated to some kind of consumer upheaval. This goes beyond common sense in that a projector is DESIGNED to work in virtual darkness 舰 By very definition the remote NEEDS to be backlit. If I were Donald Trump and the remote buyer was in the room with me, "You're Fired!" would be the words you'd hear.

Backlighting aside, the remote has a laser pointer and full mouse control when configured for use with a PC. It fits well in the hand, but the menu navigation buttons are rather low and it does not have the universally accepted (except by Optoma's remote control buyer) central 'Enter' key. Instead, the 'Enter' key is located to the bottom right of the navigation keys. This isn't tragic, but it could be better. Mute, Re-sync, Freeze (handy for use in this review), Vertical keystone, Mode and Format buttons are handily locate don't he top of the remote. I utilized 'Freeze' quite a bit during the review process to capture screen shots as needed. In addition, the Format button is handy and can make switching between 4:3, 16:9 and letterbox modes a breeze. If you are going from day to nighttime viewing you can quickly flip through modes without entering the full menu system.

The Menu System

There are four menu areas in the Optoma EP1690's Setup menu. Each is well laid out and it was very easy to locate all required functions. The menu stays up for 30 seconds without disappearing, giving you plenty of time to access functions or think about which adjustments you'd like to make. I found the layout to be easy to navigate. The only strange thing I noticed was the presence of a menu 'splash screen' of sorts which really seemed to do nothing other than create an additional step when accessing the menu system.

Image menu
The Image menu provides access to the Display Mode (Cinema, Bright, TV, sRGB, and User) as well as basic picture controls. An Advanced menu option is located at the bottom which gives way to further options. The Display Mode allows you to select from 4 color presets, each optimized for a different use. Of the options, I found only TV mode to be completely useless, resulting in unrealistic bluish color and an overall reduction in the dynamic range of the picture - especially in the blacks. The User setting will come in handy later as we calibrate the projector to more closely match our desired home theater use ('Bright ' mode can always be used effectively for presentations).

In the Advanced settings submenu we find options for setting the gamma curve, activating the Brilliant Color feature (which apparently adjusts brightness and contrast more than actual color), configuring the True Vivid level, and also modifying the color temperature. The color temperature control could use some better labeling, but basically there is a red, green and blue setting. We'll show you the temperature readings later in the review. Navigation into further submenus makes possible the adjustment of RGB gain/bias controls, changing the color space from YPbPr to RGB, and activating or deactivating various inputs (so the projector will not search for them). I really liked the menu structure. It is simple, clear and concise without missing the major requirements for user adjustments. One option I did miss was the ability to have multiple custom user controls. The workaround, of course, is to simply utilize the 5 given modes (Cinema, Bright, TV, sRGB, and User) and customize to your heart 's content - each mode will retain the settings.

Display menu
Here you will find access to all functions associated with the DLP panel and how the image is physically displayed on the screen. This includes such items as the display format (16:9, 4:3, Letterbox [LBX] or Native). There is nothing new about these modes, but you will typically use 16:9 in home theater. If you want to watch standard 4:3 content that isn't stretched across the screen, simply switch to 4:3 mode. One handy mode that I find myself using quite a bit with the Sci-Fi Channel (which if they keep canceling shows like Farscape and Stargate SG-1 won't be for very long!) is the LBX, or Letterbox, mode. This actually zooms in the whole image so that you take an image that is actually 4:3, but letterboxed, and bring it up to the full size of the projector screen. You will perceive a loss of resolution in the process, but you do get to utilize the entire screen this way (hey - you paid for it all, why not use it?)

Masking allows you to crop the image, in the event that your source device puts out noise at the very edge of the projected image. The default setting is 0, and that's where I left it for the review. Zoom is self-explanatory, though it isn't as dramatic as you would expect (at least not until you get to 3 or 4) and handles maintaining resolution very well.

As mentioned above, keystone correction was acceptable on this projector, but dither was still apparent at even the lowest settings. You may have to use it, but hopefully you can find a mounting position or placement location for this to not be the case.

Setup menu
The Setup menu is the place to go to change the menu language, projection type (front, rear, ceiling or tabletop), or display type (16:9 or 16:10 - [really 15:9]). In the event you are controlling multiple projectors via RS-232, this menu also allows you to set the ID from 0-99. Volume and Mute are present here though we highly suggest making sure your multimedia program material is 'pre-leveled'so that you don't have to jump to this menu during a presentation to adjust the volume (there is no volume control on the remote).

Options menu
This is the place to go for configuring the menu location and whether you want the unit to dynamically search for new available inputs or remain on the selected input at all times (even when it loses sync). If you live in Colorado, the High Altitude function will be sure to keep the fan on at high speed at all times to compensate for the thinner air. Auto Power Off lets you set the unit to go into shutdown mode when no signal is present for a particular number of minutes (0-60 in 5 minute increments). Finally, a Bright Mode feature is provided to help customize the viewing experience. This setting will reduce power consumption (*when disengaged) and help extend the life expectancy of the bulb. You'll want to operate the unit with Brite Mode 'Off' during home theater use and turn the feature on during daylight viewing or for presentations. I configured and set the Brite Mode as part of the calibration routine for setting the various projector modes. The final feature of the Options menu allows you to view lamp hours, configure the reminder function and reset the unit when a new bulb is inserted. You can also reset all user settings from this menu (which I thought may have been more appropriately placed in the Setup menu.)