1001-LCD Build Quality and Installation

You've already purchased your front projection system and all your components, and now you're left with a daunting task.  How do you mount the projector, without hearing an earful from your significant other; or in this case, in a conference room with a commercial drop-ceiling?  Many mounts and stands can be not-so-appealing to the female eye, such as a pole dropping from the ceiling, a stand behind the couch, or a box sitting on the conference room table.  You ask yourself:  does visual perfection really have to come at such a price?

Meet Auton Motorized Systems.  Since 1955, they have been building motorized lifts for televisions, and other visual displays.  The product in review is the Auton 1001-LCD projector lift.  Said lift enables you to totally conceal the projector until use, at which time, a simple push of a remote button lowers the projector to the precise, optimal, optical position. 

Build Quality

It was very obvious from the moment we received the package until the unit was lowered under power, Auton had cut no corners on their construction.  While the unit is fairly heavy, it is also that much more sturdy.  Built from steel, square tubing and angle-iron, and with full welds at every junction; I would have no problem letting this unit support all of my "trim" 260 lbs.  Along with the well-built frame, is the use of all metal gears, drives, and chains.  This system is full of parts you would find looking at a McMaster Carr catalog (Industrial Supplier), or looking under a Caterpillar D-9 (bulldozer).  On one hand I could mention that making this cage and frame from aluminum would lighten things a bit; on the other, some of the structural integrity would be lost as well.

Due to the build quality, it did make things a bit cumbersome when trying to hold the unit in place and mount it.  This was being installed in a business conference room with a suspended, drop-ceiling.  So not only did we have to manage holding this in midair, we also had to maneuver around the ceiling grid.  Even with the weight of the lift and the ceiling grid, it was a very nice fit.  The dimensions of the lift seem to be well thought out, as it would have worked between residential ceiling rafters, and it also fit well in the 24 x 24 ceiling grid.

There were several controls included with our lift.  One was a typical IR remote with a rocker switch for Up or Down, and a separate button for Stop.  Also included was the system control box with Up, Down and Stop buttons attached as well.  Lastly, there is a rocker switch that is hardwired into the control box, with several feet of wire to enable remote mounting.

In addition to the lift we reviewed, Auton also makes lifts for anything from small appliances to large flat-screen TVs. They can even lift a safe.  Optional features are also available on many of their models; features such as a swivel base, smart motor operation, and multiple remote capabilities.

Installation

This is where some of the "real" work began.  Hanging this well-built cage above a drop-ceiling and fastening it into concrete overhead was not an easy task.  There were no instructions included for installation, likely due to the almost limitless possibilities which exist. After all, this product is made for experienced installers (don't try this at home, kids). Despite this, with some simple measuring and a good once-over, we were well on our way.  Well, at least we were on our way towards thinking about how it should be done.  So, with our fingers at work, we quickly found ourselves Googling for the best concrete anchors. Afterwards, it was off to The Home Depot. 

We decided the best scenario for installing the unit was to mount 1" angle to the concrete ceiling, using "Sleeve Anchors" made for concrete.  Then, we would use 1" flat-bar bolted to the angle, and bolt the other end to the lift.  This would suspend the lift from the concrete ceiling at a distance of several inches, but still leave room for it to be concealed by the drop-ceiling.  Walking into the 'can't spend less than a Franklin' store, the time was 8:45 PM.  We were able to find all the hardware needed for around $50 (flatbar, angle, strap, bolts, nuts, lock-washers, washers, concrete drill bit, metal bit, and sleeve anchors).  

Now the fun began - we actually had to put the plan into practice.  We made our measurements and marked the ceiling.  I drilled the four holes for mounting the sleeve anchors, and only hit re-bar on every other hole (50/50, not bad). We adjusted, pushed the anchors into the completed holes and two of us carried the lift up the ladder.  Yes, one ladder, two of us.  What?!  Hey, that's why there are steps on both sides.  Anyway, with a little engineering and a lot of sweat, we got the lift positioned and anchored into the concrete ceiling.  Very sturdy too, I might add.

Once mounted, the wiring was very easy and self-explanatory.  The control box was mounted to the wall, above the suspended ceiling, and the grounded plug was plugged into the outlet.  We won't discuss the well thought-out procedure to get the 110V outlet in the attic space.  (Let's just say that there are electricians pliers that are no longer of good use.)  We then trimmed down one of the ceiling squares, so it would fit through the grid.  Using industrial hook & loop (Velcro), we fastened the smaller ceiling tile to the lift cage.  Plugging the male/female controller wires together, it was time for testing.