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Ask Dr. A! Does Speaker Cable Gauge Matter?

by Clint DeBoer last modified November 29, 2007
Ask Dr. A!

Ask Dr. A!

It's been a while since Dr. A answered a reader question so we pulled him away from his 4 month karaoke binge and tossed a new question at him. Seems like Dr. A has an addictive personality so we'll need to keep him a bit more occupied in the future for his own good. This question, from philophobos via our forums, has to do with speaker cable gauge, but we expanded it a bit in our answer to address some other related situations.

philophobos: Does anyone know what happens if one uses different gauges for the speakers? Like 18 gauge for the front speakers and 16 for the rear ones?

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Dr. A: Hi philophobos,

I'll address your specific question, but first let's hit some basics for others reading this question. The general idea is that you should always try to stick with a good gauge of wire - typically 16 gauge or higher is best. Now when we say "higher" realize that we really mean "lower". Er, let me explain...

Speaker cable gauge is short for American Wire Gauge, or AWG. This is a expressed in numbers that get smaller as the wire gets thicker. So, smaller numbers mean a larger thickness of wire, and larger numbers mean a smaller thickness of wire. Most bulk speaker cable is between 16 and 12 gauge (AWG).

Your particular question seems to center around consistency, but at it's heart there is an underlying question of what happens to the audio as it travels through these cables? Consistency only comes into play once you exceed a particular distance. We could do the math, but let's just give you some basic, conservative guidelines to follow instead:

  • Less than 30 feet: 16 gauge
  • 30 - 50 feet: 14 gauge
  • 50 - 100 feet: 12 gauge
  • 100+ feet: 10 gauge (or us 14/4 cable which works out to 11 gauge)
  • Audioholic: 10-12 gauge, regardless of distance

I tend to run 10-12 gauge everywhere just for fun since in the scheme of things it doesn't seem to cost all that much more. If, however, you are wiring up a whole house I see no reason to spend the extra money if your longest distances from the amplifier to the speakers are less than 100 feet. Stick with 12- or 14-gauge unless you're really concerned with eeking out the absolute best performance.

What happens when you exceed these distances? Power loss and reduced damping factor to the speaker (the ratio of the rated speaker impedance to the output impedance of the amplifier) occurs over the distance of the cable. This means reduced sound quality. To put it bluntly, a thinner gauge wire over an extended length will introduce its own significant amount of impedance (50 feet of 24 AWG wire calculates to be 2.62 ohms, for example). When you're dealing with an 8-ohm speaker, thats roughly 2.5dB of insertion loss!  You can see how this added impedance can dramatically affect the sound.

If you're in a typical theater room you'd have to have a very thin gauge of speaker wire for your surrounds (like 20-gauge) before you were able to tell the difference audibly in most cases - and even then you'd have to listen critically and compare the same source to the fronts. Add to this the fact that most people have different speakers for surrounds than they do for the fronts... Add to that room acoustics... Add to that the expected amount of use the surrounds get and the differing program material they receive than the fronts... and it becomes even more of a non-critical issue.

In your example I would doubt very much that there would be any audible difference between 18- and 16-gauge unless your surrounds utilized cable lengths of more than 30-40 feet. There would most certainly be a measurable difference - but that's not always as important.

I hope this helps - now for some more karaoke!

by Clint DeBoer last modified November 29, 2007

Recent Forum Posts:

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gene posts on December 02, 2007 14:27
My brother does have 16 gauge wire on his home theater system and it appears to work well. I have 18 gauge wire on mine and I am comletely satisfied as to its toneality and soundfield balance.


You may wish to rethink that as 18AWG wire has nearly 4x the DC resistance of 12AWG. Thus running 20ft of 18AWG wire would yield the same resistance of nearly 80ft of 12AWG!

insertion loss of 20ft of 12AWG with 8 ohm speaker = .07dB
insertion loss of 20ft of 18AWG with 8 ohm speaker = .28dB

The minor additive AC resistance of 12AWG wire at 20kHz is completely washed out by the DC resistance of 18AWG wire so even at frequencies up to the capabilities of human hearing, 12AWG wire still has FAR lower AC resistance, about 2.3 times lower as a matter of fact!
kelsci posts on December 02, 2007 13:14
Hi; I conducted passive surround sound experiments during the 80s and 90s with four and five channel dynaquad ciruits. My use was with 18 gauge wire. One time, I wired up the circuit with 16 gauge wire. The soundfield collapsed into the middle of the room as one big monophonic muddle. So this circuit told me something of the importance of 18 gauge wire. Many perhaps tried passive surround decoding in the pre-discrete days. If they fooled with the lower gauge wire, they would have experienced failure in getting that circuit to operate.

I also tried 20 gauge wire. The tonality of the sound of the whole sound field was thin, much like turning down a treble control on a receiver counter clockwise.

When it comes to an active discrete surround sound receiver as we have today, I cannot really comment on the effects of lower gauge wires since I did not have the opportunity to try that. My brother does have 16 gauge wire on his home theater system and it appears to work well. I have 18 gauge wire on mine and I am comletely satisfied as to its toneality and soundfield balance.
gene posts on November 30, 2007 10:44
I'll say this; inside your typical HTR, the wires connecting the speaker terminals from the amplifier circuit board are usually MUCH smaller than the cable you are using to run to the speakers from your HTR.


Yes and those are extremely short distances and anything with power connections still usually have 14AWG or soldered on to pcb board with very thick traces. The small wires are usually connection digital circuits and pass extremely low current signals.
yettitheman posts on November 30, 2007 00:26
Yes and no. I reference the article at hand, as longer distances benefit marginally from increased wire gauge.

I'll say this; inside your typical HTR, the wires connecting the speaker terminals from the amplifier circuit board are usually MUCH smaller than the cable you are using to run to the speakers from your HTR.
gene posts on November 29, 2007 12:02
I'm in the process of finishing my basement and I'm putting in a home theater system as part of the process. I've decided to try using some mini-coax cable because of the size and easy of use with the connectors. (For the cable type just send me an email - I haven't posted enough yet, so I can't include the link) I also like it because it's shielded.

How does that compare to speaker wire?


You don't need shielding for speaker cables in 99% of installs. Don't forget a speaker is a low impedance device so you won't get much pickup at all from outside sources.

Find out the gauge on the mini COAX but I suspect it will be 18AWG or higher thus I'd recommend either cross connecting 2 COAXs, or using conventional 4/4 speaker wire paralled to yield an effective gauge of 11AWG.
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